The Ultimate Guide to Hiking the Laugavegur Trail in Iceland

Overview of the Laugavegur Trail

• Length: 55 km (34 miles)

• Duration: 3-4 days (depending on pace and route preferences)

• Trailheads: Begins in Landmannalaugar, ends in Þórsmörk (or vice versa)

• Difficulty: Moderate to challenging (dependent on weather and fitness level)

• Season: Mid-June to early September (due to snow and weather conditions)

The Route and Daily Breakdown

The Laugavegur Trail can be hiked in either direction, but most people begin in Landmannalaugar and finish in Þórsmörk. Here’s a typical 4-day itinerary breakdown:

Day 1: Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker

• Distance: 12 km (7.5 miles)

• Elevation Gain: 470 meters (1,540 feet)

• Time: 4-5 hours

• Highlights: Colorful rhyolite mountains, steaming hot springs, lava fields

• Trail Conditions: The trail ascends steadily from Landmannalaugar, passing through geothermal fields with active fumaroles. The rhyolite mountains in this section are stunning, with colors ranging from deep reds and greens to yellows.

Notes: This section is often windy and cold, so be prepared for temperature drops. Hrafntinnusker, the highest hut on the trail, is known for its cold conditions.

Day 2: Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn

• Distance: 12 km (7.5 miles)

• Elevation Loss: 490 meters (1,610 feet)

• Time: 4-5 hours

• Highlights: Expansive views, obsidian fields, Álftavatn Lake

• Trail Conditions: The trail gradually descends, providing views of the surrounding mountains and fields of obsidian (volcanic glass). You’ll pass by hot springs and geothermal features before reaching the flat plains near Álftavatn.

Notes: Álftavatn is a scenic campsite near a lake, providing a serene spot to end your day. Be prepared for river crossings on this stretch.

Day 3: Álftavatn to Emstrur (Botnar)

• Distance: 15 km (9 miles)

• Elevation Loss: 40 meters (130 feet)

• Time: 6-7 hours

• Highlights: Mælifellssandur black sand desert, glacial rivers, views of Mýrdalsjökull glacier

• Trail Conditions: The trail crosses the Mælifellssandur desert, a vast plain of black sand, offering a unique contrast to the verdant valleys and colorful mountains.

Notes: This day involves a river crossing at Bláfjallakvísl. The Emstrur hut is located in a beautiful valley with views of the nearby glacier.

Day 4: Emstrur to Þórsmörk

• Distance: 15 km (9 miles)

• Elevation Loss: 300 meters (985 feet)

• Time: 6-7 hours

• Highlights: Lush birch forests, deep canyons, river valleys

• Trail Conditions: This section descends through canyon landscapes and vibrant green valleys, gradually entering the birch forests of Þórsmörk, a stark contrast to the barren highlands.

Notes: Þórsmörk offers some of Iceland’s most beautiful scenery and marks the end of the trek. The lush vegetation here is a stunning finale to the trail.

Essential Packing List

Weather in Iceland is unpredictable, so you need gear to handle rain, wind, cold, and, on rare occasions, sun. Here's what to pack:

Clothing

• Base Layers: Moisture-wicking long-sleeve top and leggings to keep you dry.

• Insulating Layers: Fleece jacket or down jacket for warmth during colder days and evenings.

• Waterproof Shell: Lightweight, windproof, and waterproof jacket and pants are essential.

• Hiking Pants: Quick drying pants that can handle the changing weather.

• Hiking Boots: Sturdy, waterproof hiking boots with ankle support for rugged terrain.

• Warm Hat and Gloves: Even in summer, temperatures can drop.

• Gaiters: To keep out mud and water, especially useful for river crossings.

Camping Gear (if not staying in huts)

• Tent: A lightweight but sturdy tent that can withstand high winds and rain.

• Sleeping Bag: Rated for at least 0°C (32°F) or lower for warmth in high altitude camps.

• Sleeping Pad: Insulated and comfortable, as ground temperatures can be cold.

Other Essentials

• Trekking Poles: Useful for balance, especially during river crossings and descents.

• Water Purification Tablets/Filter: While most water sources are clean, always be prepared.

• Portable Stove and Cooking Gear: Gas canisters are available in Reykjavik but can’t be flown in.

• Food: High energy snacks, instant meals, and lightweight food for the trail.

• First Aid Kit: Include blister care, bandages, and any personal medications.

• Map and Compass: Weather can change quickly, and visibility can decrease; don’t rely solely on a phone.

Huts on the Laugavegur Trail

The Laugavegur Trail has a series of mountain huts maintained by Ferðafélag Íslands (Icelandic Touring Association). Reservations are essential, as the huts fill up quickly during the summer season.

1. Landmannalaugar Hut: The starting point, located near hot springs, making it a popular spot for a pre-hike soak. Capacity: 78 beds.

2. Hrafntinnusker Hut: The highest and coldest hut on the trail, known for its extreme weather. Capacity: 52 beds.

3. Álftavatn Hut: Located near a lake with beautiful views, providing a calm and scenic stop. Capacity: 72 beds.

4. Emstrur Hut (Botnar): Set in a rocky valley with glacier views, this hut is the last stop before Þórsmörk. Capacity: 60 beds.

5. Þórsmörk Huts: There are multiple huts in Þórsmörk, the most popular being Húsadalur. This is a lush, forested area with multiple trails to explore after the trek.

Facilities in the Huts: Huts provide bunks with mattresses, communal cooking areas, and toilets. However, there are no showers at all huts, so check the details before booking.

River Crossings on the Laugavegur Trail

The trail includes several river crossings, some of which require wading. Here are the main crossings and tips for each:

1. Bratthálskvísl: A shallow crossing between Landmannalaugar and Álftavatn, often manageable by stepping stones.

2. Bláfjallakvísl: Located between Álftavatn and Emstrur, this is the most challenging crossing on the trail. Water can be knee-deep or higher, depending on rainfall and time of day. Cross early in the morning when water levels are lower.

3. Þröngá: The final crossing before reaching Þórsmörk. It can be shallow but often wide, so expect wet feet here.

River Crossing Tips:

• Remove your boots: Crossing in sandals or water shoes keeps your boots dry.

• Use trekking poles: They provide stability against the current and uneven ground.

• Cross with others: Linking arms with fellow hikers can add stability if the current is strong.

Important Tips for Hiking the Laugavegur Trail

1. Book Accommodations Early: Both huts and campsites on the trail fill up months in advance during peak season. Book as early as possible.

2. Check Weather and Conditions: Weather can change rapidly, with fog, rain, and even snow possible. Check updates on Vedur.is (Iceland’s weather site).

3. Use GPS or Navigation Apps: The trail is generally well-marked, but navigation can be difficult in foggy or rainy weather.

4. Start Early Each Day: The trail can become crowded during peak season. Starting early allows for a quieter experience and better photos.

5. Leave No Trace: The Laugavegur Trail is a protected natural area. Carry all trash out and follow strict guidelines for waste disposal.

6. Prepare for All Weather: Even in summer, temperatures can drop to freezing, and high winds or rain are common. Dress in layers and keep rain gear accessible.

Getting to and From the Trail

• To Landmannalaugar: Several bus companies offer trips from Reykjavik to Landmannalaugar (such as Reykjavik Excursions and Trex). Buses usually run from June to early September.

• From Þórsmörk: Buses also run from Þórsmörk to Reykjavik, and it’s advisable to book your return journey in advance, as seats can be limited.

If you’re planning a circular route, some hikers choose to extend the trek from Þórsmörk to Skógar, adding an extra day and taking in the impressive Skógafoss waterfall.

Final Thoughts

The Laugavegur Trail offers an unparalleled hiking experience through some of Iceland’s most remote and stunning landscapes. By preparing thoroughly, booking early, and respecting the natural environment, you’ll be set for an unforgettable journey across Iceland’s highlands. Whether you stay in huts or camp, this trail will bring you face-to-face with Iceland's raw, breathtaking wilderness at every step. Enjoy the adventure!