Ristorante Bernardi is found along the state road in Tassonarla di Babarasco in the comune of Tresana. At lunch it's a bustling place serving great Lunigiana cuisine at a stunningly low price point.

You walk into the Bernardi and if you are a regular you grab a carafe of wine off the bar and you walk into the dining room, turning around unobtrusively to pay your respects to the art and the women frolicking gaily in it, and then you sit wherever you like. The waiter comes over and recites the menu. You pick a pasta, a second, some vegetables, and perhaps ask him or her where the sausage comes from and maybe how his kid did in calcio. It's that sort of place.

It's the only place in the Lunigiana I've come across porcupine ragu!

Once you have a big lunch at Bernardi, you may not want much for dinner. There's a traditional Salumificio called Salumificio Marsili just down the road. Pig out. It keeps, so you don't have to eat it all in one sitting, but you can if you want.