Note: I am pairing this hike with Shirouma dake to make it a 2 day hike however, this can be an in and out hike to Hakubayari Onsen only which will take around 7 hours to complete.

The Hakubayari Onsen via Shirouma (Hakuba dake) hike is a challenging 2-day traverse along the Hakuba ridgeline in Nagano. The trail starts at Sarukura bus stop and takes hikers through beautiful scenery, including waterfalls and hot springs.

Day 2 involves traveling south along the ridge and navigating the exposed Kaerazu Kiretto ridge requiring some caution. The hike then drops down to the east as you make your way to Hakubayari Onsen Koya- the mountain hut with the onsen. The trail down from the mountain hut might be the trickiest part to navigate as it can be a little overgrown and covered in snow.

My advice is to stay one night at Hakuba Sanso (mountain hut) and enjoy the two day trail in style. They provide all the bedding and food you need for a comfortable stay and make the hike lighter as you carry less.

Overview

Embarking on a hike from Mount Shirouma (Shirouma-dake) to Hakubayari Onsen offers a rewarding journey through the Northern Japanese Alps, combining alpine scenery with a unique hot spring experience. Here's a structured guide to assist you:

1. Preparation

• Seasonal Considerations: The optimal hiking season is from mid-July to late September. Outside this period, trails may be closed or conditions can be hazardous due to snow and weather.

2. Access to Trailhead

• Starting Point: The hike begins at Sarukura - a mountain lodge at the base of the mountain and accessible by bus from Hakuba Station.

• From Tokyo:

  • Train: Take the JR Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (approx. 1.5 hours). Transfer to the JR Shinano Line to Hakuba Station (approx. 1.5 hours).

  • Bus/Taxi: From Hakuba Station, take a bus or taxi to Sarukura.

3. Hiking Route

• Day 1: Sarukura to Mount Shirouma Summit

  • Distance: Approx. 7 km

  • Elevation Gain: Approx. 1,700 meters

  • Highlights: Traverse the Daisekkei (Great Snow Valley), Japan's largest snowfield. Crampons may be necessary due to icy conditions. Reach the summit of Mount Shirouma (2,932 meters) for panoramic views.

  • Accommodation: Stay overnight at Shirouma Sanso, a mountain hut near the summit.

• Day 2: Mount Shirouma to Hakubayari Onsen

  • Distance: Approx. 8 km

  • Elevation Change: Descent of approx. 800 meters

  • Route: Proceed from Mount Shirouma to Mount Shakushi-dake and then to Mount Hakuba Yari-ga-take. From there, descend to Hakubayari Onsen.

  • Highlights: Experience diverse alpine flora and rugged terrain. Conclude the day with a soak in the natural hot spring at Hakubayari Onsen, renowned as one of Japan's highest altitude onsens.

4. Accommodation at Hakubayari Onsen

• Hakubayari Onsen Hut: Offers lodging and access to the onsen. Reservations are recommended, especially during peak season. Note that the onsen has mixed bathing; women may prefer to wear bathing suits.

5. Descent

• Route: From Hakubayari Onsen, descend back to Sarukura.

• Distance: Approx. 6 km

• Time: Around 3.5 hours

6. Additional Considerations

• Equipment: Bring appropriate gear, including crampons for the Daisekkei, sturdy hiking boots, and weather-appropriate clothing.

• Weather: Mountain weather is unpredictable; check forecasts and be prepared for sudden changes.

• Safety: Inform someone of your itinerary and consider carrying a map and compass or GPS device.

This hike offers a blend of challenging terrain and the unique experience of soaking in a high-altitude natural hot spring, making it a memorable adventure for prepared hikers.