If you stand on Via dei Cerretani and gaze up at the exterior wall of Santa Maria Maggiore, high up in the distance you can spot ‘La Berta’, a mysterious stone head which legend says belongs to a woman who was petrified by an alchemist...

It is thought that the head has been there since medieval times but unfortunately there are no historic records to explain its origins, which has led locals to come up with many of their own tales.

Many people believe that the woman was a victim of Cecco d’Ascoli, an astrologer who was on his way to be burned at the stake in 1326. As Cecco was being taken to his death, he stopped along the street outside the church to ask for a drink of water. Looking out of the church window above him was Berta who shouted down to the crowd to deny him the water and claimed the man would use it to communicate with the devil who would then grant him immunity. In a moment of rage Cecco looked up and petrified the women casting a curse over her to never move again.

Other theories are that the head is a memorial to the person who donated the bells to the church; another is that the head belongs to an old Roman sculpture and was used as decoration.

The basilica is one of the oldest in the city dating back to 931 but was remodelled towards the end of the 12th century in the Gothic style. The interior is quite simple with one nave and two aisles but includes beautiful stained-glass windows and frescoes which give it a dark and moody feel. Also, within the Northeast corner of the church you can find an extremely interesting carving showcasing one of the angelic angels raising their sword and standing upon a chained demon.