Make your way early to Tokyo Station (Yaesu south exit) to take the direct bus from Tokyo to Shima Onsen. This is the best option to travel to Shima Onsen using public transport. You can buy the bus ticket up to one month in advance and I highly recommend you do so! There is only one bus a day and it does tend to get fully booked.
Once the bus starts wind up the mountains and the scenery changes dramatically to lush mountains and beautiful foliage (in autumn) you will soon reach Shima Onsen.
You should arrive a bit after noon. I highly recommend to leave your luggage with your hotel (you won't be able to check in before 3-4pm anyways) and use the time to explore Shima Town. Since this town is so small, most shops close around 4pm so do your souvenir shopping early! Make your way slowly down the hill until you reach the turquoise Shima Potholes. (about 2km down from the bus stop)
Make your way slowly down the hill, along the local shops to your left and right, until you reach the turquoise Shima Potholes. (about 2km down from the bus stop)
If you followed this route, you should be approaching check-in time. Make your way to the iconic red bridge that inspired the Ghibli movie Spirited Away. ⛩️ Make sure to hold your breath while crossing so the gods won't notice you while you cross 🤫
Time to check into your hotel and enjoy a relaxing dinner as well as some late night soaks in the hot springs.
If staying at Sekizenkan Kashoutei is out of the budget, there are other accommodations available for all kinds of budgets. Definitely make sure to still visit the oldest traditional bathhouse of Japan! It is a beautiful building and truly magical.
A tattoo friendly ryokan that offers hot springs as well as vegetarian and vegan food on a much smaller budget is Kashiwaya Ryokan in Shima Onsen. Rooms are spacious and the private open air onsen is a dream! This is a great alternative to Sekizenkan and the staff is truly so accommodating.