Luni (which the Romans called Luna) lies on a fertile, inland plain ringed with mountains near the mouth of the Magra river in the region of Liguria. Luni, or ancient Lunae, was once a sea port from which ancient Romans sent blocks of marble for processing all over the Mediterranean. Then it happened. The inevitable, an oft told tale among archaeologists: the harbor silted up and the glimmering marble city eventually fell prey to pirates.

Luni might be one of the most interesting sites in Liguria. Much work has been done in the past few years to make it a far better tourist attraction. There is a small museum, and another space for artifacts and mosaics. You can see the sites in an hour or two, but there are also opportunities to have a meal on the site if you get hungry walking around.

We had a fine meal at La Baracchetta di Luni. It's famous for its fried frogs and eel, but if you're a finicky eater you don't have to have them, if course; there are plenty of other menu options, mostly traditional regional food.

The other restaurant is the more formal Chioccia d'oro. Both are near the amphitheater.

There is a Roman amphitheater on the site. Built in the second century, the amphitheater held 7000 people. It's an extra euro to see the inside.

The archaeological site is free the first Sunday of the month.