If you're making the trek to Koyasan, Kongobuji Temple absolutely delivers as the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism. But let's talk about that rock garden first - it's hands down the best we saw in all of Japan. What makes it special isn't just the design (though it's stunning), but how you can actually sit and enjoy it without the crowds you find at Kyoto's more famous gardens.
The temple itself is a powerhouse of history and art. Being the head temple of Shingon Buddhism means they didn't hold back on the details - we're talking incredible painted sliding doors (fusuma) with scenes that'll make your jaw drop, and the architecture itself is a masterclass in Edo period design. The fact it was rebuilt in 1863 means everything feels more authentic than some of the more recently reconstructed temples.
What really makes Kongobuji work is how it balances its important religious role with being visitor-friendly. The entrance fee is reasonable, the crowds are manageable, and you can actually take time to soak in both the spiritual and artistic elements without feeling rushed.