Aulla was our market town. It was bombed during the war on account of its importance as a city standing at the confluence of two rivers--so if you were to stop, it would appear something was wrong, as if you had taken a wrong turn at La Spezia and wound up in Cleveland. Unlike the medieval villages that surround it, there were wide streets, plenty of parking, and three-abreast sidewalks lined with shops and cafes.

The guidebooks will mention a couple of things about Aulla, like the castle and the once-upon-a-time monastery, and you would be vastly unimpressed at the dearth of touristic opportunities. But there are, of course, more.

One day we were wandering the older part of town when a man accosted us in a "hey, buddy" sort of way. "Would you like to see the church and the museum?"

We followed him. He lead us to the apse of the small church. There, in all its glory, was an archaeological excavation. It included a skeleton that was of Medieval origin. But, once centered in the apse was a saint. Capraiso was his name.

But what was interesting, on top of the saint they found a bomb.

"Yes, it was one of yours," he orated as if to remind us our kind were not without sins.

The bomb had to be exploded elsewhere. At a university.

Today the San Caprasio Museum of Aulla lies alongside the church. It tells in a compelling way the story of pilgrimage in the 10th through 12th century.

And remember that castle? It's not even a castle. It's officially a fortress. It's called the Fortezza della Brunella. Now that we've gotten that out of the way, the tours will tell you lots about what makes it a fortress and how that's rare in the Lunigiana, and how it's been modified over the years, especially by the family that transformed part of it into their home. If you're one of those who likes to read before you go, A Tuscan Childhood by Kinto Beaver is the autobiography of a British woman whose family bought the 16th century fortress in the early 20th century.

So Aulla is a a provincial capital and a town with many interesting bars. Go if you want to see a different part of Italy. Go on Saturday if you want to see the big street market.